London Fashion Week returned to the capital last week and, dare I say, it appears that it may have finally rediscovered its buzz. Following years of cancellations and fairly somber affairs, this season featured big moments from the likes of JW Anderson and Burberry, a standout by Labrum, and a clear show stealer from Simone Rocha, adding a refreshed sense of optimism and excitement to the questionably brisk British summer air.
This season’s event, which officially kicked off on September 15, felt like a London Fashion Week of old. The first day saw big presentations from the likes of Stefan Cooke with a nautical-themed show and Priya Ahluwalia with a tribute to African heritage, although it was Chopova Lowena, the rebellious label founded by Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena-Irons, that took the plaudits with their experimental grunge interpretation of skate park chic.
Jonathan Anderson’s eponymous label headlined day two with a mid-morning lesson centered around the art of play. The designer, who sent out Scola color clay invites to guests prior to the show, showcased a collection typical of JW Anderson, with garments literally fresh off a potter’s wheel.
Other stand out moments from day two came with the return of Skepta’s Mains label after a four-year hiatus and Foday Dumbuya’s Labrum, which presented an unexpected adidas collaboration. Labrum, which has become renowned for its ability to fuse British tailoring with West African design, unveiled a Nomoli-inspired take on the Samba silhouette and a textured iteration of the chunky Stan Smith adiFOM Mule.
Holzweiler took to the London catwalk for the first time on Sunday to present a nomadic Norwegian way of life. The label, which had previously only ever shown at Copenhagen Fashion Week, presented both menswear and womenswear silhouettes inside the city’s Camley Street National Park, said to be inspired by “our daily atmosphere” and “the body’s natural movement,” according to the brand.
It was…
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