Fashion’s old guard finally got their wish. Not so long ago, the industry’s stodgiest authorities were grousing about the streetwearification of luxury (or maybe it was the luxurification of streetwear — who’s to say!). But now, streetwear and luxury are again drifting apart.
As different as the Spring/Summer 2025 fashion shows have all been, there’s one consistent throughline: Luxury looks like luxury again.
Yes, luxury fashion once again is informed by that expensive, no-logo (or barely-logo’d) look, eschewing dramatic proportions or statement branding for something more bluntly sumptuous.
But is that for the better?
Today’s luxury look first took shape in the best parts of 2023’s fashion weeks, which included more muted presentations and indulgently saucy looks. They’re hardly strange bedfellows because This was the formula that set the standard of elegance in the ’90s.
Clearly, the short-lived quiet luxury boom wasn’t so short-lived after all, though these disparate threads weren’t knitted together until this most recent round of shows.
So, here we are, contemplating Spring/Summer 2025 and wondering just where in the heck all that luxury streetwear stuff went.
You expect (and get) this sort of no-nonsense suavacity from labels like Bottega Veneta, Loro Piana, and Prada. But Burberry? Marni? Moschino? Diesel?
This shift was at least partially forecasted by some of the young creative directors, who tend toward professionalism.
But who could’ve seen typically cheeky Sunnei offering collarless vests, knitted T-shirts, and very Phoebe Philo-style shirt-dresses for SS25, all styled on a cast of mature models?
What about JW Anderson serving a…
Read the full article here
